Is vegan leather equally evil?

With a plant-forward approach, veganised products are significantly reducing the harm done to animals, otheriwse rampant, in the fashion industry. On the contrary, who is accountable for the ecological cost of vegan products? We examine.

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High-end fashion houses are investing in next-gen vegan leathers, particularly bio-engineered options like mycelium, to balance innovation with ethical responsibility.

In the realm of fashion, trends can be as fleeting as a sketchy summer breeze. However, certain shifts have a lasting impact, influencing long-term consumption patterns. One such development is the growing adoption of vegan products, which completely eliminates the use of animal-derived materials. This shift has gained momentum primarily due to two factors: increasing awareness and advocacy for animal rights, and the advantages of mass production, which enable economies of scale and improved cost efficiency.

While the fashion industry has embarked heavily on this trend, the designers are caught up in the dichotomy of using cruelty-free vs. eco-toxic fibres in the making of vegan accessories.

As the trend unfolds, the question arises: Are vegan accessories the true tough cookies in the world of durability and sustainability? For instance, long-established brands have invariably relied on leather and rubber to design shoes and bags. And legitimately so, leather has lasted the test of time to be the most durable material in the making of shoes.

And, for bags too!

Deviating from the norms to procreate vegan leather are new-age labels like PAIO and The CAI store, along with more prominent names liike Anita Dongre, ZOUK, MIRRAGIO, etc. Their fresh crops are attempting a sartorial revolution that marries style with an ethical cause. Going beyond the allure of veganism, I racked the brains of designers to understand the true endurance and sustainability of the so-called ‘cruelty-free’ material.

A dichotomy between plastic and plant

Vegan leather, also known as faux leather or synthetic leather, is a type of material designed to mimic the look and feel of genuine animal leather (without using any animal products). It is created using various synthetic materials like Polyurethane (PU) or plant-based susbtance like pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, other fruit waste.

Shweta Nimkar, the founder of Mumbai-based footwear brand PAIO itells me, “We have worked with materials such as hemp, faux silk, jute, faux satins, coconut leather, cork, organic cotton in producing our signature shoes.” Validating their ethical standards, PAIO has been approved by PETA which implies that their vegan products are cruelty-free.

PETA-approved vegan footwear by PAIO

In a similar vein, Anita Dongre recently launched a series of vegan bags and belts in an attempt to chmapion sustainability. However, when I reached out to the iconic fashion label, they chose not to comment on the ecological and endurance aspects of the ‘conscious-luxury’ products.

Aradhana Minawala, co-founder of the vegan footwear brand CAI admits: “We use polystyrene leather (PU), suede, satin and polyester threads to make our vegan shoes.” The durability, water resistance, and flexibility have made polyester a highly-sought after alternative for various applications. While it is more lucrative for brands to deploy polyester in the production of vegan accessories, its synthetic nature unveils the underlying paradox of vegan leather.

With these revelations, I wonder who is accountable for the true ecological cost of vegan products? The answer to this is a narrative drenched in controversy.

Ranking higher than plant-based alternatives in the making of vegan items is Polyurethane (PU) which is essentially build up of plastic components. It is a preferred material in the production of vegan leather as it can closely emulate the texture and appearance of animal leather. With versatile customisation options, PU allows for a wide range of colours, finishes, and patterns, satisfying diverse fashion needs.

A classic black belt crafted from Mirum, a plant-based and plastic-free material. Highlighted with a statement bird buckle in the center. (Anita Dongre)

The dark side of vegan leather

When evaluating the sustainability attributes of vegan leather, it's crucial to examine its inherent characteristics and the manufacturing process. While these materials are marketed as eco-friendly due to their lack of animal-cruelty, they still come with their own set of challenges. Product manufacturers shed light on the ecological footprint of vegan leather:

Water Usage: The production of vegan leather, often derived from materials like polyurethane and PVC, can require significant water usage. It takes about roughly 20,000 liters of water to produce just 1 kilogram of synthetic leather.

The water usage in producing vegan leather varies based on the manufacturing process and the type of materials used. Synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU) typically require less water during production compared to traditional leather. PU vegan leather often involves coating a fabric base with a layer of polyurethane, which doesn't inherently demand extensive water usage.

However, while vegan leather generally tends to have lower water usage than animal leather, the specific environmental impact can vary based on material choices and production methods.

Chemical Pollution: The chemical pollution associated with producing vegan leather primarily arises from the manufacturing processes and treatments used to create synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU). During the production of PU vegan leather, chemicals such as solvents, adhesives, and dyes are commonly employed to coat the fabric base and achieve the desired texture and appearance.

If not managed properly, these chemicals can pose environmental risks, including air and water pollution. Additionally, the disposal of chemical byproducts or waste materials generated during production can contribute to pollution.

Microplastic Pollution: This can be a concern associated with certain types of vegan leather, particularly those made from synthetic materials like PU. During the lifecycle of PU vegan leather products, friction, wear, and washing can lead to the shedding of microplastic particles. These tiny plastic fragments, often invisible to the naked eye, can find their way into waterways and ecosystems, potentially impacting aquatic life and entering the food chain.

Carbon Footprint: The carbon footprint linked to vegan leather production is influenced by a mix of factors, from raw material extraction to manufacturing processes. While vegan leather typically emits fewer greenhouse gases compared to traditional animal leather due to the absence of livestock raising, its environmental impact is not negligible.

PU involves energy-intensive processes such as chemical synthesis and polymerization, contributing to carbon emissions. Additionally, the sourcing and processing of petroleum-based components used in some vegan leathers also contribute to the carbon footprint.

However, advancements in manufacturing techniques, such as water-based coatings and improved energy efficiency, are aimed at reducing the carbon intensity of vegan leather production. The overall carbon footprint is also affected by the sourcing of raw materials, transportation, and the product's lifecycle.

Durability and Waste: Vegan leather products often have a shorter lifespan compared to genuine leather items. A vegan bag can typically last for 5-10 years depending upon the care and roughness of use. This can lead to a higher turnover of products and increased waste generation, as synthetic materials are less durable and more prone to cracking, peeling, and degradation.

Vegan leather is here to stay – So, what does the future entail?

Here are some key aspects shaping the future of vegan leather:

The emergence of lab-grown leather through cellular agriculture and biofabrication techniques could revolutionise the industry. Brands are placing greater emphasis on sustainable production practices, including water-based coatings, reduced chemical use, and minimal waste generation, to mitigate environmental impact. Lastly, a shift towards circular economy models involves designing products for longevity and recyclability. This could lead to the development of vegan leathers that are more easily recycled and repurposed.